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lildwayne14
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[*] posted on 7-3-2018 at 10:19 PM


Also finally got a manifold I had ordered.

I hope to find the time on the weekend to mate the two togather and see how it looks.

Its not the best looking manifold but its what i have to work with for now.








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lildwayne14
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icon_discussion.gif posted on 26-3-2018 at 12:51 PM


So i'm kinda on the fence about weather to go ahead and do the 4efte swap or take it in stages and convert the car from automatic to manual transmission and make sure its running right then do the swap. I'm undecided as i'm toying with the idea of also just boosting the current 5e engine that is in the car now. :screwy:

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[*] posted on 26-3-2018 at 04:34 PM


I did a manual swap on my car. It is fairly straight forward to do. I would say it takes a day if you got all the correct parts :2thumbsup:

The car is quite faster in manual depending on what final drive you get but dont expect it to be mobbing the streets with a stock 5e :lachen:

If you got any questions let me know
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[*] posted on 26-3-2018 at 06:17 PM


Quote: Originally posted by lildwayne14  
So i'm kinda on the fence about weather to go ahead and do the 4efte swap or take it in stages and convert the car from automatic to manual transmission and make sure its running right then do the swap. I'm undecided as i'm toying with the idea of also just boosting the current 5e engine that is in the car now. :screwy:



In order to make a 5E live you need to fit forged pistons and steel rods
A set of steel con rods runs from 200 to 479.00 and a set of CP forged pistons runs 588.00 and a heavy duty clutch kit runs from 350 to 520.00. Then you will need a set of injectors and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. If you have a DIS 5E you will need a standalone ECU because the DIS ECU does not work properly with piggback ECUS. Do the math a 4EFTE plus 5 speed runs from 800.00 to 1400.00 and if you get the 4EFTE ECU all you will need is a combo harness that runs 350 to 400.00 and you can plug up and start after installing the engine & 5 speed. In your case since the car is auto you will need a clutch slave cylinder and a clutch master cylinder and a hard line from the JY plus labor charges if you are not doing the work yourself. The stock Tercel EFI fuel pump is good up to 250WHP. Ultimately it is your choice
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thoughthard2comeupwithths
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[*] posted on 27-3-2018 at 12:15 AM


Quote: Originally posted by mycars12  

The car is quite faster in manual depending on what final drive you get but dont expect it to be mobbing the streets with a stock 5e :lachen:


I actually "raced" an automatic Paseo with my manual Paseo in the quarter mile. Same gen. Out in the country, not on an official track.

No comparison. I roasted the fronts during the start while the auto just kinda took off. My g/f at the time said to the auto's passenger spectating, "he's an stick, huh?"

I did my typical no-lift shifts, and game over :thankyou:

[Edited on 29-3-2018 by thoughthard2comeupwithths]




Tein Super Street coilovers, Tein pillowball mounts, Whiteline swaybars 22MM(F) 20MM(R)
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VVR poly control arm bushings, K&N drop-in, Dynomax Ultraflo, Gibson stainless tip
15x7 Axis Maglite with 195-50-15 Yokohama S.drive
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lildwayne14
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[*] posted on 28-3-2018 at 08:47 AM


Bro you dont need half that stuff for a 5e to run good. I had a 5e set up running on 14 psi on a td04 turbo daily driven for over two years with no problems and all I had was some upgraded injectors controlled by a super afc and I made 195hp, No upgraded internals, no standalone not even a fuel pressure regulator.

Here are some pictures from the dyno day
https://epbible.weebly.com/dyno-day.html

I forgot to mention that I pretty much have majority of the parts for the manual transmission swap only thing left for me to pick up is the transmission and the only reason i dont have it already is because I dont have space to store it.

Quote: Originally posted by mulberry  
Quote: Originally posted by lildwayne14  
So i'm kinda on the fence about weather to go ahead and do the 4efte swap or take it in stages and convert the car from automatic to manual transmission and make sure its running right then do the swap. I'm undecided as i'm toying with the idea of also just boosting the current 5e engine that is in the car now. :screwy:



In order to make a 5E live you need to fit forged pistons and steel rods
A set of steel con rods runs from 200 to 479.00 and a set of CP forged pistons runs 588.00 and a heavy duty clutch kit runs from 350 to 520.00. Then you will need a set of injectors and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. If you have a DIS 5E you will need a standalone ECU because the DIS ECU does not work properly with piggback ECUS. Do the math a 4EFTE plus 5 speed runs from 800.00 to 1400.00 and if you get the 4EFTE ECU all you will need is a combo harness that runs 350 to 400.00 and you can plug up and start after installing the engine & 5 speed. In your case since the car is auto you will need a clutch slave cylinder and a clutch master cylinder and a hard line from the JY plus labor charges if you are not doing the work yourself. The stock Tercel EFI fuel pump is good up to 250WHP. Ultimately it is your choice
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lildwayne14
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[*] posted on 28-3-2018 at 08:50 AM


Good stuff. I have only one question. During my research I have seen where some people say u need to change the thermostat housing to the one that comes with a manual engine as the gearbox wont bolt up because it will be in the way. Is this the case?

Quote: Originally posted by mycars12  
I did a manual swap on my car. It is fairly straight forward to do. I would say it takes a day if you got all the correct parts :2thumbsup:

The car is quite faster in manual depending on what final drive you get but dont expect it to be mobbing the streets with a stock 5e :lachen:

If you got any questions let me know
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lildwayne14
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[*] posted on 28-3-2018 at 08:51 AM


Thats how it is with launching an automatic. They will get off the line quicker but ultimately the manual will pass them down the track.

Quote: Originally posted by thoughthard2comeupwithths  
Quote: Originally posted by mycars12  

The car is quite faster in manual depending on what final drive you get but dont expect it to be mobbing the streets with a stock 5e :lachen:


I actually "raced" an automatic Paseo with my manual Paseo in the quarter mile. Same gen. Out in the country, not on an official track.

No comparison. I roasted the fronts during the start while the auto just kinda took off. My g/f at the time said to the auto's passenger spectating, "he's an automatic, huh?"

I did my typical no-lift shifts, and game over :thankyou:
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[*] posted on 28-3-2018 at 07:07 PM


Im currently using the auto one with the auto radiator and the top radiator hose is pretty close it will still work with no issues. I used a full braided clutch hose from the master slave cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder to ditch the crappy hard lines.
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[*] posted on 28-3-2018 at 07:10 PM


Quote: Originally posted by lildwayne14  
Bro you dont need half that stuff for a 5e to run good. I had a 5e set up running on 14 psi on a td04 turbo daily driven for over two years with no problems and all I had was some upgraded injectors controlled by a super afc and I made 195hp, No upgraded internals, no standalone not even a fuel pressure regulator.

Here are some pictures from the dyno day
https://epbible.weebly.com/dyno-day.html

I forgot to mention that I pretty much have majority of the parts for the manual transmission swap only thing left for me to pick up is the transmission and the only reason i dont have it already is because I dont have space to store it.

Quote: Originally posted by mulberry  
Quote: Originally posted by lildwayne14  
So i'm kinda on the fence about weather to go ahead and do the 4efte swap or take it in stages and convert the car from automatic to manual transmission and make sure its running right then do the swap. I'm undecided as i'm toying with the idea of also just boosting the current 5e engine that is in the car now. :screwy:



In order to make a 5E live you need to fit forged pistons and steel rods
A set of steel con rods runs from 200 to 479.00 and a set of CP forged pistons runs 588.00 and a heavy duty clutch kit runs from 350 to 520.00. Then you will need a set of injectors and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. If you have a DIS 5E you will need a standalone ECU because the DIS ECU does not work properly with piggback ECUS. Do the math a 4EFTE plus 5 speed runs from 800.00 to 1400.00 and if you get the 4EFTE ECU all you will need is a combo harness that runs 350 to 400.00 and you can plug up and start after installing the engine & 5 speed. In your case since the car is auto you will need a clutch slave cylinder and a clutch master cylinder and a hard line from the JY plus labor charges if you are not doing the work yourself. The stock Tercel EFI fuel pump is good up to 250WHP. Ultimately it is your choice


It depends on what 5e motor you got. With the dis it isnt possible but with the first gen one with the distributor then itll be fine. He is just letting you know the best route to go to have a reliable setup that you can beat on without the rod going through the block and have a peace of mind.
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lildwayne14
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[*] posted on 29-3-2018 at 10:32 AM


Quote: Originally posted by mycars12  
Quote: Originally posted by lildwayne14  
Bro you dont need half that stuff for a 5e to run good. I had a 5e set up running on 14 psi on a td04 turbo daily driven for over two years with no problems and all I had was some upgraded injectors controlled by a super afc and I made 195hp, No upgraded internals, no standalone not even a fuel pressure regulator.

Here are some pictures from the dyno day
https://epbible.weebly.com/dyno-day.html

I forgot to mention that I pretty much have majority of the parts for the manual transmission swap only thing left for me to pick up is the transmission and the only reason i dont have it already is because I dont have space to store it.

Quote: Originally posted by mulberry  
Quote: Originally posted by lildwayne14  
So i'm kinda on the fence about weather to go ahead and do the 4efte swap or take it in stages and convert the car from automatic to manual transmission and make sure its running right then do the swap. I'm undecided as i'm toying with the idea of also just boosting the current 5e engine that is in the car now. :screwy:



In order to make a 5E live you need to fit forged pistons and steel rods
A set of steel con rods runs from 200 to 479.00 and a set of CP forged pistons runs 588.00 and a heavy duty clutch kit runs from 350 to 520.00. Then you will need a set of injectors and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. If you have a DIS 5E you will need a standalone ECU because the DIS ECU does not work properly with piggback ECUS. Do the math a 4EFTE plus 5 speed runs from 800.00 to 1400.00 and if you get the 4EFTE ECU all you will need is a combo harness that runs 350 to 400.00 and you can plug up and start after installing the engine & 5 speed. In your case since the car is auto you will need a clutch slave cylinder and a clutch master cylinder and a hard line from the JY plus labor charges if you are not doing the work yourself. The stock Tercel EFI fuel pump is good up to 250WHP. Ultimately it is your choice


It depends on what 5e motor you got. With the dis it isnt possible but with the first gen one with the distributor then itll be fine. He is just letting you know the best route to go to have a reliable setup that you can beat on without the rod going through the block and have a peace of mind.


I understand and truly appreciate any input or advice I get. Im never too big to learn something new.:2thumbsup:
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lildwayne14
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[*] posted on 1-4-2018 at 07:47 PM


Got a few items in the past week.

Top hats for both front and rear suspension
Cltuch kit
Flywheel and bolts

More Pics -> https://epbible.weebly.com/blog/a-few-parts













[Edited on 2-4-2018 by lildwayne14]
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[*] posted on 19-4-2018 at 08:15 AM


So I got a chance a few days ago to install my rear struts. Process wasnt difficult and took around about 45 minute. The hardest part was removing the bezels to reach the top bolts that hold the struts in without breaking the clips.

Check out the right height after install and how the old struts compare to the new one in terms of height here http://epbible.weebly.com/blog/got-them-on








[Edited on 19-4-2018 by lildwayne14]
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[*] posted on 24-4-2018 at 06:24 PM


I'm going to be searching the forum when i get some time but has anyone here ever done a turbo install on the factory 5e that comes with the tercel?

Need some advice
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[*] posted on 28-4-2018 at 06:24 PM




So this is the first of a set of a used sway bars I picked up. I was able to get rear anti sway bar and front anti sway bar.

I managed to install the rear set and hope to do the front set shortly. I attempted to paint it but could only attempt to paint it at work as it was too cold outside.

That plan failed as the fumes were ridiculous even with a mask on. So my next option is to have it sand blasted an powder coated.

Im gonna try to install the front ones soon and do the front struts at the same time so stay tuned for that.

In the mean time you can can check out a few pictures here:
Rear Sway Bars


[Edited on 28-4-2018 by lildwayne14]
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