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Author: Subject: 1994 Tercel - 3EE Engine Rebuild (Redo on the head, to correct machine shop error.)
ChakaRaka
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[*] posted on 21-3-2011 at 01:13 AM
1994 Tercel - 3EE Engine Rebuild (Redo on the head, to correct machine shop error.)


So my g/f bought this car last summer to run back and forth to University with. We got it for $850 and figured it was still a good deal seeing as there is no rust on it and it was just blowing a litlle blue back then. Well it gradually got worse little by little, so that when the weather cooled off, I had her drive my car.

Mine is a 2001 Corolla, completely mechanically sound with good winter tires (we live in the great white north). I was driving hers because I was pulling way less miles and I can fix it if it dies (or at least enough so to limp it back to the shop/home).

Well by the end of February I was able to release a true smoke screen, if I just let it idle for a couple minutes. And my power/compression was so reduced that I had to wring the revs out like it was a 50cc race-bike. It is 5-spd, but you would literally have to downshift into 1st to take a rolling corner, because if you had any incline whatsoever, it would almost stop. I was also able to burn up to about 3/4 of a litre of oil on certain days and was starting to plan my routes to avoid hills etc. So I did a compression test and found that 1 cylinder was good, two were just below what is deemed allowable and 1 was 0 psi. I think I drove it about 30 kms (20 miles for our southern cousins) after that before I parked it. I spent about a week amassing parts, then started tearing her down.

Here is the visual photographic diary of this tear-down and rebuild. I have 250 kms on it now and just need to fine-tune the valve lash hot, despite the fact it is purring like a kitten now.

:pics2:

Oh hell yeah, pics!

[Edited on 3-25-2011 by ChakaRaka]

[Edited on 3-27-2011 by ChakaRaka]

[Edited on 4-12-2011 by ChakaRaka]




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ChakaRaka
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[*] posted on 21-3-2011 at 01:14 AM



The typical BEFORE picture.




Another BEFORE picture, this is before anything was removed.




And out comes the engine.




Empty engine bay. It's in good shape though and will look good cleaned up with a sparkly new engine installed.




Engine out with valve cover off for the first time since we have had the car. (Rear of Engine)




Engine out with valve cover off for the first time since we have had the car. (Front of Engine)

Hey there's where half of the oil we have poured in has gone...




Driver's side view of the transaxle and motor.



Passenger's side view of the motor with crank pulley, timing cover and cam pulley off. Looking oily here too.



Inside the valve cover. Wow is that cam ever "tanned"... Can't wait to see it when it comes back from the "head doctor".

[Edited on 2-21-2013 by ChakaRaka]




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ChakaRaka
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[*] posted on 21-3-2011 at 01:14 AM



The tool on the left is the new one I bought for these head-bolts. The one on the right is the one that we already had for the larger Toyota's. They are both 12-point but hopefully you can see by the pictures that the splines are not the same angle. Snap-on Part Number: FADM8E
(Front View)




The tool on the left is the new one I bought for these head-bolts. The one on the right is the one that we already had for the larger Toyota's. They are both 12-point but hopefully you can see by the pictures that the splines are not the same angle.
(Top View)




Finally got the head off after getting the tool from Snap-On. Not as scary as I had imagined...that is a good sign.




Here is what the business end of the head looks like. Found something interesting here, which will become apparent in the next pic.




Cylinder #2's combustion chamber. Notice anything about the Exhaust valve. That would be part of the reason why #2 had ZERO compression.




The "front" of the motor with almost everything removed. Weird how the oil pan extends so far forward to be covered by the extensive external oil pump. The front main seal is incorporated into the body of the oil pump and it was a bit leaky too. Water pump housing is next off.




The "rear" of the motor and massive rear main seal. Well at least that is what it is called despite it's lack of apparent seal. Off that comes...got that seal in my kit.




Some various parts taken off so far. Most have been pre-cleaned and had their fasteners brushed up or replaced to be ready for reassembly. (Shot 1)




Some various parts taken off so far. Most have been pre-cleaned and had their fasteners brushed up or replaced to be ready for reassembly. (Shot 2)




More various parts...the smaller items.

[Edited on 2-21-2013 by ChakaRaka]




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[*] posted on 21-3-2011 at 01:18 AM



Oil pump disassembled. I was going to rebuild it but the seal groove was too deep, so I am replacing it and throwing this in with our spares. On the right is the rear main seal retainer.




Top deck of the block all cleaned up so there will be little prep come head gasket time. Pistons de-carboned and numbered for disassembly.




A shot of the bottom end.




Another shot of the bottom end. Hopefully it measures out as good as it looks. I have had enough of parts shopping for this car, for a while.




Now here is what the head should look like. All rebuilt, decked and shiny.




Another angle of the head showing the cleaned up non-"tanned" cam.




I finally got the block clean enough to paint it. The painting part is fun. But the masking part is a real pain. I think I spent nearly two hours masking it all off properly. For the larger areas, I used old vehicle wrap vinyl scraps and the finer areas green tape or a combination of both. Tanya chose bright red for colour, as we agreed it had a Toyota/TRD feel to it.

"Front" of the motor, (P/S when installed).




"Right" of the freshly painted motor, (rear when installed).




"Rear" of the freshly painted motor, (D/S when installed).




"Left" of the freshly painted motor, (front when installed).

[Edited on 2-21-2013 by ChakaRaka]




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[*] posted on 21-3-2011 at 01:19 AM



Freshly painted Oil Pan (man was that thing crusty), Valve Cover and various brackets, mounts and supports.




I painted some other parts to match, all the accessory pulleys: Power Steering, Alternator, Water Pump and Crank/Damper. I also did the Water Neck and Water Pump body. Should look pretty good.




Here is the Water Pump pulley just waiting to be installed on the shiny new water pump. Can't wait to start re-assembly. I have done so much prep, I could probably wear white gloves...




Got the pistons out. Turns out there is some damage to #2 when that valve came apart, but it will be okay to reuse. The rod bearings are pretty scored too. I hope to replace them if my replacements measure up okay.




A view of the crank and mains with the con-rods and pistons removed.




Here are the replacement main and rod bearings, thrust washers and rings.




The main caps and crankshaft are out now. The block main bearing are not horrible but there is some scoring here too. This block is getting pretty light to man-handle now.




Here are the crankshaft, main caps & bearings, thrust washers, block & bearings.




I installed the new main bearings and plasti-gauged all the bearings. They all had even wear and fell withing the tolerances with the new bearings in. So I removed everything and arranged it here so they were out of harm's way when I hone the block.




Here is the block all honed up just before final cleaning. Reasonable cross-hatch angle for my first one solo.

[Edited on 2-21-2013 by ChakaRaka]




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[*] posted on 21-3-2011 at 01:20 AM



Just another shot of the bores, straight down to the ground. All ready for the new rings now.




Here are the new rings freshly installed and about to be reinstalled in the cylinder bores. The old rings are at the top edge of the box.




The block with the new main bearings installed and caps torqued up. Just about to put the re-ringed pistons in with their new rod bearings.




Here are the old bearings, rings and seals. The left ones are the main (crankshaft) bearings, the right ones are the rod (connecting rod) bearings. All the rings are splayed out below them. New thrust washers (not needed) to the right of the bearings. Bin full of seals and other replaced old parts and my rear main seal and holder inside the bag staying clean until install.




Getting well into the reassembly. Oil pump on, water pump on, rear main seal installed, almost time for the head.




Back side of the motor, showing the new water pump and beautified water pump housing.




The front side of the motor, before you can't see it anymore.




Here is the new rear main seal (and where the clutch/tranaxle will soon be installed.




Head gasket at last, and a final look at those freshly re-ringed pistons.




Head on, from the rear of the motor, that is the intake side. Thanking my mechanically inclined guardian angel that all the head bolts went in without stripping their flimsy little 12-pt internal drives.

[Edited on 2-21-2013 by ChakaRaka]




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[*] posted on 21-3-2011 at 01:24 AM



Head on, from the front of the motor, that is the exhaust side.




Head on, from the passenger's side, almost time for the timing belt.




Filling up the sump with oil now so I can pre-prime and test the lubrication system before everything is reassembled. Alternator is on now too, almost time for that belt.




Timing belt at last, with all new components.




All buttoned up with covers now and crank pulleys installed.




A final look at the cam and valvetrain for now. Just got finished setting the valve-lash cold, I have to revisit this and do it hot soon.




No more human-powered movement... We have the technology to replace that.




Empty engine bay ready to accept all the new goodies.




The whole enchilada all assembled and ready to be put in (front view).




All together. (passenger's side view).

[Edited on 2-21-2013 by ChakaRaka]




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[*] posted on 21-3-2011 at 01:27 AM



All together. (rear/firewall side view)




All together. (driver's side view)




Here are most of the old parts. All that is missing here are the 3 old belts,3 old hoses and a the intake gasket.




And raise the hoist to almost full height.




Engine in, now the fun starts. Many hoses, wires and other gee-gaws to chase down, sort out and reconnect.




Almost whole now. Just adding transmission oil and have 1 small air intake tube to reinstall.




Here's a shot of the engine bay all finished off and road-tested. I still have a couple final tuning things to do, but it is running so well already that, that has not become a serious urgency. I would also like to wash the bay out a bit and get that paint clean.

(Front view)




Here's a shot of the engine bay all finished off and road-tested.

(Passenger's side view)




Here's a shot of the engine bay all finished off and road-tested.

(Driver's side view)




Here's a shot of the engine bay all finished off and road-tested.

(Front view)



So that's it for this project. I just have one more thing to add: 12V or GTFO!

:pepper: :clap: :pepper:

[Edited on 2-21-2013 by ChakaRaka]




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[*] posted on 21-3-2011 at 01:35 AM


:pics2:

What, not enough for you insatiable pic-:censored:s...? Fine here are two of the burnt valve.





BTW chunks of this bounced off the top of my piston before being pulverized and being launched out the tailpipe.




:yikes:

[Edited on 2-21-2013 by ChakaRaka]




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[*] posted on 21-3-2011 at 08:24 AM


Looks like a job well done .







... now boost it :)






Originally posted by ugabuga
oh my goodness. how much did u spend on all of this? $10? lol

Originally posted by mulberry
the intercooler piping on this car is another reason why no one in the import scene will ever take us Ter/Seo owners seriously, and it looks like crap

Originally posted by willtotheumm
Astro is the ghetto king
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[*] posted on 21-3-2011 at 08:47 AM


VERY NICE! I like!

Agreed, boost it!
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[*] posted on 21-3-2011 at 09:08 AM


sweet,another 3ee lover:pepper::pepper::clap::clap:




3ee dont leak oil,they mark their territory
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[*] posted on 21-3-2011 at 11:22 AM


Quote: Originally posted by AstroVannin  
Looks like a job well done .







... now boost it :)


:thanx:

I was/am considering it but my car needs some attention before I can throw more money at this one. Tempted to go 4AGZE instead...or buy my bro's MR2 (yard art) and throw it in there.
:2thumbsup:




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[*] posted on 21-3-2011 at 10:35 PM


Wait umm I gotta ask why?? A 3ee? Would it not have been better to swap a 5E? I am not hateing I am just saying dont the 5efe's put out more power smoother?

All in all you showed that car some seriouse love bro! That thing is like new now! How much power did you notice once it was running again? I mean from when you frist got it to when you rebuilt it? When it was all new did it run much much better with lots more power or felt like a needed tune-up was done?




1998 4Dr tercel black, and CE trim model (The Monster in Monster tercel is for its Monster feul econamy)
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[*] posted on 22-3-2011 at 12:25 AM


Quote: Originally posted by MonsterTercel  
Wait umm I gotta ask why?? A 3ee? Would it not have been better to swap a 5E? I am not hateing I am just saying dont the 5efe's put out more power smoother?

All in all you showed that car some seriouse love bro! That thing is like new now! How much power did you notice once it was running again? I mean from when you frist got it to when you rebuilt it? When it was all new did it run much much better with lots more power or felt like a needed tune-up was done?


About the 3EE vs 5EFE, true the 5EFE is no doubt a better motor (in stock form, calm down Astro). But it cost me about $750 for the parts. A JDM 5EFE will be about $800 + Shipping, plus issues with fitting the newer motor (yes they are minimal, but any variable leads to the strong possibilty of issues). Now that JDM motor SHOULD be in good shape, but that is not all that certain. So that route will likely cost $1100+???(misc parts) for likely around $1500 installed. Or I could get a wrecker motor for probably about $200 (if available), drive an hour there and an hour back, spend a few hours there in the mud (just thawed here) and have an engine that might be great, servicable or a total piece of scrap. So to have any certainty and peace of mide there (once again it is the g/f's car) I would have to spend the original $200+$230(fuel and time away from my business)+$500(parts, only if I don't have to redo anything in the bottom end) for a total of about $930 if all goes well. Now lets also look at this from the perspective of an apprentice technician. Do you want to revisit "hoses and wires 101" for the umpteenth time in your life (yeah I'm and old c**t) or do you want to spend some more indepth time revising and learning a few new tidbits (in addition to gaining confidence that only comes from doing something a lot) and log twice the hours? Option A (my route) for a motor that is fresh, clean and strong and just the color she wanted - $750. Option B (JDM sourcing) which should be okay especially if a few key things are replaced, oh and don't mind the rust from the proverbial slow boat from...err...Japan - $1500. Or Option C (JY gamble) why reiterate here - $930+. :deal: See I'm not retarded... :clap:

About the power, I have this thing they call "low-end" now...quite novel. If you read my intro, then my analogy to a 50cc race bike really was the real deal. It was gutless, smoky, rough and so short on inspiring confidence that I literally referred to it as our "Town-car". Now I can't really comment on the power now very thoroughly yet because I am still in the midst of a very diligent engine break-in. These things are notorious for ring and valve seal issues so I am trying to give it every fighting chance. But the power (if that is what we are calling 80 horses) is there for sure. I will be able to comment more once I go north of 4000 rpm. I only have 300 km on it so far though. It fires so quick now, I mean, if it started any easier I would remove the starter and install a pull cord (recoil starter) and downsize the battery. It idles quiet and smooth, so much so that when I was setting the idle, I walked around the car to check the tach and thought it stalled at first. I still have to set the valves while hot (have not had a chance, juggling 3 customer vehicles today) but once I get that done it should be like new.

All in all, thank you for your kind words and honest tactful inquiry MonsterTercel. And thanks to all the rest of you who had encouraging things to say or more importantly who take the time to offer up some knowledge and help those who are new and learning. Seeing as Toyota's are our company's forte, I have and plan to keep lending a hand to those with questions. Gotta say I like the vibe of this forum (no that was not an intentional bad Matrix/Pontiac pun) much more so than most others I have been a part of.



:thanx:




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