My Turbo Paseo...EX-race car...

Doug904 - 12-11-2012 at 06:51 PM

Hey guys,

I've been here since 06' but only used to come in spurts, lol. Basically I've had my Paseo since 05' but have known of the car since my high school days. Nothing special, Teal blue with black interior.

Long story short its been threw plenty of hands and I finally acquired it from the last owner's bookie. The engine was blown and turbo very tired. The interior had been taken out and a 4 point roll cage installed, Jazz racing Seat and not alot else.

I've put a few engines in it trying to play around but have done the same everytime, basically blown it up due to poor tuning availability for the Paseo. I run a Ford aftermarket tuning company, even have unlimited access to a dynojet but still nothing that would satisfy the needs of 20+psi on a 1.5 engine.

I've since had it at my dads place in the back yard under some tree's. I finally got the bug again to mess with it but this time I'm going to do it differently.

I've stumbled across a black Paseo at the local Pull a part and the interior was cherry! I got the seats, center console and alot of other misc stuff to help reinstall the interior in this car. Sun faded yes, but torn up no, except the driver's seat bolster which is at a interior shop now getting redone.

Here's a few shots of it when I brought it home a few weeks ago...







Since I've removed the Jazz "uncomfortable as hell" race seat and the cage bars below it. I'm dying my seats middles teal blue with Rit dye, just put 2 teaspoons to 3 cups in a old spray bottle and the black back to black with the same. I did review a few different methods here and just didn't like the idea of the textured seats using fabric spray in a can.





Before....





After dying, still need to install...






[Edited on 12/3/2012 by alfradio]

GT_REVVA - 12-11-2012 at 06:55 PM

good to see youre still toying with that thing Doug :2thumbsup:

Doug904 - 12-11-2012 at 07:08 PM

Engine management...

This is where it kinda gets tricky, like before mentioned I tune Fords near daily. I'm very knowledgeable about them. I'm going to install a Ford engine harness and PCM from a late 90's Ford Escort. This way I will have full control over the engine management system, will be able to remove the Distributer and run a MAF sensor to be able to adapt to the elements and air flow requirements.

I've done this before on a V6 Ford engine that was never fuel injected and its still running like a dream, and spraying 125 shot at the track.

I think I' recall someone doing this before from a contour but can't find it anywhere, all I find when I look up Ford electronics is the Mega Squirt EDIS.


Engine..

I've found a nice replacement engine from a local friend on To! Never would have known him if it hadn't been for this site. I'm still going back 5EFE but I'm not going 300whp, gonna shoot for 275 and work through my suspension ALOT. Found a killer deal on a strut tower brace, engine mounts, and offset LCA bushings.

I want to put this car back on the road and have some fun with the locals. It used to be well known in the late 90's around town but a new breed of racers has come about now. I'm going to run BFG 15"drag radials as well as lower it on all corners.

Thanks for your input! If I can get this Ford system working I think it would be a much cheaper alternative to complete aftermarket systems and the tuning support is everywhere.

Thanks, Doug

Old dyno shot....





[Edited on 13-4-2014 by Doug904]

Doug904 - 12-11-2012 at 07:11 PM

Quote: Originally posted by GT_REVVA  
good to see youre still toying with that thing Doug :2thumbsup:


Good to see your still with us! After you got in the wreck was when I stopped fooling with it, figured the man has left the scene why bother?? lol

Malibuguy - 13-11-2012 at 12:04 AM

Yay old beasts being revived is always good

Doug904 - 15-11-2012 at 03:05 PM

A few pictures from the other day, I did wash it the day it was brought home from those first photos. Funny, the wife said " It doesn't look as bad as you described?" Lol, she saw it AFTER the wash ;)

I've removed the spoiler, need to fill in the holes






[Edited on 12/3/2012 by alfradio]

GT_REVVA - 15-11-2012 at 03:11 PM

put the spoiler back on and take the tint off :lachen:

Doug904 - 15-11-2012 at 04:28 PM

I've begun removing the tint but as you see it's bubbly and comes off in quarter inch pieces :dunce:

Any advise for removing old tint??

I like the spoiler off, reminds me of a notchback 5.0 :pepper:

darksaint530 - 15-11-2012 at 04:32 PM

take a razor blade and some windex to the tint i did it on mine it took forever!!!

i got a white spoiler you can put back on there lol

whats your seat look like?

[Edited on 15-11-2012 by darksaint530]

Doug904 - 15-11-2012 at 05:01 PM

I'm gonna try to put all the seats with their dyed covers and repaired tweed in it this weekend. I gotta find some more carpet. Checked with autozone and they don't have it??

darksaint530 - 15-11-2012 at 07:18 PM

look on ebay u can buy rolls of the same stuff

Rei-Mihoji - 15-11-2012 at 10:19 PM

rockauto for oem-like carpet

thoughthard2comeupwithths - 15-11-2012 at 10:33 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Doug904  
I've begun removing the tint but as you see it's bubbly and comes off in quarter inch pieces :dunce:

Any advise for removing old tint??


Dig on http://www.tintdude.com for tips...

ammonia trick...
steamer trick...
...

My last tinter removed the tint on my rear window using a steamer. I removed the door tint and rear sides using razor blades and Windex.

Doug904 - 18-11-2012 at 09:36 PM

Got some interior stuff done this weekend. I was able to cut that seat frame out that was attached in one spot to the cage, like it was doing anything. I also installed my drivers and passengers seats, loosely, because I don't have the carpet figured out yet. I just want some regular black carpet but I want it to have some wear properties, got some cheap carpet from a friend but its just not what I'm looking for.

Funny, these photos should be backwards but I'm removing the aftermarket seat bars not installing them.





YES, I'm removing those two huge red wires, if I can get back to pull a part before its gone I'm gonna to get an entire dash harness.

I've still got to figure out what I'm going to do with these two tanks.


One is a fuel cell, which I'm putting a stock tank back in it so that's covered. The other is a reservoir for the Air-to-water inter cooler.

Doug

[Edited on 12/3/2012 by alfradio]

darksaint530 - 19-11-2012 at 01:53 PM

what about geting an auto trans radiator and flushing it then running your turbo lines to where the trans lines hook up , if not then use one of the overflow tanks they use on hot rods.
i have a new aftermarket oil, trans cooler that should work, let me know if you want it.

[Edited on 19-11-2012 by darksaint530]

tersplat - 19-11-2012 at 03:04 PM

A little different monster Saint, The Air to water intercooler needs cold water to cool the air instead of air cooling the air. The big tank allows you to put water and ice in it to get a much colder charge. The oil cooler idea wouldn't really do anything for an air/water intercooler.

Doug904 - 25-11-2012 at 08:43 PM

Got the dash out completely today and cleaned up more of the inside. Painted some of the floor pan black in spots where it's had some water and dirt. I cleaned out the heater box I got from Darksaint, thanks, and installed it all. I also painted the metal dash bar to keep it from getting any uglyer.

I was able to remove Any extra wiring crap that was under the dash or spliced into the harness. I was truly afraid they had hacked up more but luckily it just had a few strays and I even got a set of Bosch relays out of it. I'm so happy to have the heater box back in, lol.

Now I'm torn though, the local pull a part has a black dash that I pulled that's in great shape. My dash is painted black but unless you look behind it you'd never know, but it has a few self tapping screw holes in it where they had a monster tach on the outside of the cluster pod.

What do you guys think? Keep my dash and fill and repaint it? Or get the other dash and install it, it would probably be around $30.

Thanks, Doug

madRPM - 25-11-2012 at 10:11 PM


I'd get the dash, install it and keep the one you had as a spare

117 - 25-11-2012 at 10:50 PM

Pm me more about this tuning shop for fords...

As far as suspension set up... How far do you want to go and what kind of racing are you prepared to do?

Doug904 - 26-11-2012 at 05:54 PM

Scored big today at the pull a part yard, got a complete carpet, not new but looks good enough for me, the manual steering column from the car I got the rack from, and a 150 speedo!!

Funny, I was looking at every celica I saw and either they were the 110's or just gone but I saw this one with the cluster laying in the seat and the only thing left in it was the speedometer! I wasn't truly looking for it but I'm happy I found it! And the price, well with all the carpet, interior ducting, and additional wiring It was included with the price!

I also looked threw two new paseo's they have, a white and a teal blue like mine. Both Autos but the interiors were in decent shape and blue none the less.

As for my dash delima, I went to get the black one and when I pulled it out of the car it was scratched in a few small places and it was blue underneath? I guess they come from the manufacturer in blue and then its painted black for the black interior cars. So I just decided to keep mine and respray it.

What color black do I use? Semi-gloss or Matte? I don't want a shiny black nickel, lol..

U2U sent 117





[Edited on 12/3/2012 by alfradio]

darksaint530 - 26-11-2012 at 07:59 PM

you will want to use a satin, when i painted my other dash i just used satin black krylon( for plasics), the only problem you will have is when u fill those holes in it, it will not be the same textured look as the rest of the dash, you will have a few really smoth spots.

try speading the fiberglass on sumthing useless first, and dont mix to much at once, it will harden and you will not be able to use it.

Doug904 - 2-12-2012 at 07:29 PM

Got some stuff done on the inside this weekend and a pretty decent haul from Pull a Part too.


First, I bondo'd my dash and painted it using plastic paint. I sanded the plastic using 800-1000 grit paper and used a extra center console to test with. It didn't go well, the plastic adhesive promoter was HORRIBLE! It would run, and not spray and just look like crap. Then when it was dry and I resanded it to paint the Satin black paint bubbled and didn't want to stick to it at all :angry:

So, on another extra part I had lying around I just sanded and used the Satin paint, it worked great! BUT it was all shiny like a new penny, it looked so ghetto. I had bought a can of Matte finish paint for my wife in her crafts so I grabbed it and used it and it looks great. So I painted the dash, center console, glove box, A-pillars and kick panels this weekend and installed most of them too.





Got all of the heater vent ducts and controls installed with the cables and it all moves! I do have one question for those who have had the center console or glove box out. There are two green relays on a thin bracket, one says starter relay on it, they are on the wiring harness below the dash in the middle below the radiator. Where does the bracket bolt to?? I tried all kinds of orientations but they never looked right or fit.




I used the Rit die on the factory carpet, its sun faded light gray or blue even, it helped but I'm going to have to do it again. Can I buy a small cheap spray guy and spray it with that? I mean its just water and dye but I just wanna make sure it will spray it.

At Pull a Part I got another front seat to further my attempts to make a single center mount back seat. But my few major gains I was able to get was my COMPLETE engine management harness, from a 97 Escort 5-speed and Gold emblems in good shape from a Solora. I was soo happy when I come across it still with them, I couldn't believe they were still on it. All for less then $40!





I keep telling my self I'm working on one section at a time, like the interior, then the engine, body work etc..but its so freeking hard not to sand the hood down and repair the small scratch and install the engine and new wiring system.

Thanks, Doug







[Edited on 3-12-2012 by Doug904]

[Edited on 12/3/2012 by alfradio]

chip18sw - 2-12-2012 at 07:54 PM

Quote: Originally posted by darksaint530  
take a razor blade and some windex to the tint i did it on mine it took forever!!!

i got a white spoiler you can put back on there lol

whats your seat look like?

[Edited on 15-11-2012 by darksaint530]
Uh heat gun ammonia and plastic bags are much better! I became an expert at removing tint..after trying to learn how to put it on!:haha:

chip18sw - 2-12-2012 at 08:04 PM

Quote: Originally posted by thoughthard2comeupwithths  
Quote: Originally posted by Doug904  
I've begun removing the tint but as you see it's bubbly and comes off in quarter inch pieces :dunce:

Any advise for removing old tint??


Dig on http://www.tintdude.com for tips...

ammonia trick...
steamer trick...
...

My last tinter removed the tint on my rear window using a steamer. I removed the door tint and rear sides using razor blades and Windex.
Yeah that's the site I used! I could do the side windows but never got the hang of the back..so I paid a pro..and he did a crap job for me!:curse:

But with quality tint!:lachen:

chip18sw - 2-12-2012 at 08:06 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Doug904  
Engine management...

This is where it kinda gets tricky, like before mentioned I tune Fords near daily. I'm very knowledgeable about them. I'm going to install a Ford engine harness and PCM from a late 90's Ford Escort. This way I will have full control over the engine management system, will be able to remove the Distributer and run a MAF sensor to be able to adapt to the elements and air flow requirements.

I've done this before on a V6 Ford engine that was never fuel injected and its still running like a dream, and spraying 125 shot at the track.

I think I' recall someone doing this before from a contour but can't find it anywhere, all I find when I look up Ford electronics is the Mega Squirt EDIS.


Engine..

I've found a nice replacement engine from a local friend on To! Never would have known him if it hadn't been for this site. I'm still going back 5EFE but I'm not going 300whp, gonna shoot for 275 and work through my suspension ALOT. Found a killer deal on a strut tower brace, engine mounts, and offset LCA bushings.

I want to put this car back on the road and have some fun with the locals. It used to be well known in the late 90's around town but a new breed of racers has come about now. I'm going to run BFG 15"drag radials as well as lower it on all corners.

Thanks for your input! If I can get this Ford system working I think it would be a much cheaper alternative to complete aftermarket systems and the tuning support is everywhere.

Thanks, Doug

Old dyno shot....

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h348/Doug90444/paseo/100_0378.j...


Old sheet with new T3/t4 hybrid

Uh..wow! So what was the problem? Why were they blowing up?

[Edited on 12/3/2012 by alfradio]

4agetercel - 3-12-2012 at 01:15 AM

poor thing, its looking much better already

Doug904 - 4-12-2012 at 05:01 PM

I think I didn't have a large enough PCV system, I only had one 5/8 hose going to a tank but this time I'm going with three off the valve cover and a electric pump to pull the gases out.

Of course too much RPM could have been a contributing factor, trying to stay in 4th at the end of the 1/4 rather then upshift to 5th meant I had to rev it to 7800 rpm's. I'm going to a larger tire this time to try and bring the RPM down at the end.

Tuning of course, I was using the SAFC2 but it was a bandaid to a true management system. This time I'm going to a Ford factory ECC-V from an Escort and this way I'll have full controll over anything as well as datalogging and a Mass-Air flow based system that will help make changes at part throttle to keep the driveability nice.

Thanks, Doug

[Edited on 4-12-2012 by Doug904]

Doug904 - 4-12-2012 at 05:08 PM

The interior....

I've reinstalled the dash, all heater box components and controls, and carpet.

The BEST and easiest thing I've done so far has been dying the carpet and seats. I bought a $15 twenty ounce paint spray guy at Harbor Freight and this was a god send. Before I was trying to do it all with a spray bottle and my hand was about to fall off. I got this spray guy, mixed 3 caps full of dye to nearly a full cup of hot water, the spray cup, and turned my air down to 40psi on my compressor. It went like clock work! I did about 3 coats to the carpet and outsides of the seat in black and two to the insides of the seats where it used to be gray and is now teal blue.

The dash and all components were painted and matte finished and its looks like new. I left the radio and cup holder out to do my new PCM and wiring install and I can't wait to move out to under the hood to get started.

Thanks, Doug






[Edited on 4-12-2012 by Doug904]

cbegnaud - 4-12-2012 at 05:12 PM

car is looking great so far i like the dash , i may be taking mine out soon,yours looks mint.

GT_REVVA - 4-12-2012 at 05:26 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Doug904  
I think I didn't have a large enough PCV system, I only had one 5/8 hose going to a tank but this time I'm going with three off the valve cover and a electric pump to pull the gases out.

Of course too much RPM could have been a contributing factor, trying to stay in 4th at the end of the 1/4 rather then upshift to 5th meant I had to rev it to 7800 rpm's. I'm going to a larger tire this time to try and bring the RPM down at the end.

Tuning of course, I was using the SAFC2 but it was a bandaid to a true management system. This time I'm going to a Ford factory ECC-V from an Escort and this way I'll have full controll over anything as well as datalogging and a Mass-Air flow based system that will help make changes at part throttle to keep the driveability nice.

Thanks, Doug

[Edited on 4-12-2012 by Doug904]


any advantage to doing that versus just plumbing them to the turbo inlet? :dunno:

at least using the turbo inlet, the scavenging effect would be directly proportional to the amount of pressure being forced into the motor

you could plumb it between the maf and the compressor inlet

just a thought....:lachen:

Doug904 - 4-12-2012 at 06:18 PM

Yeah, it's not a fresh engine so it may have alittle blow as it sits now, especially under boost, so I don't want it to recirculate into the intake which could cause oil build up on the intake valves and on into the combustion chamber causing detonation. One other thing being a MAF car I don't want any oil residue to get into the MAF sensor, which will be from a 05-09 mustang in a blow thru configuration.

I've considered doing either a header evac system, where you put a tube on the exhaust header at a 45 and use the exhaust to pull a vacuum as it increases in RPM or the electric pump/oil catch can. The only reason I've settled with the pump/can system is that I've tuned a car with the exhaust type and it would smoke at higher RPM when it was really sucking it out and since it was in the exhaust it would burn it.

The benefit to all of this is to help make the rings seal therefor keeping combustion pressure high and pumping loss is reduced too. The trick will be using a pump that's not too big or too small, I'm going to start with a 1/2 evac pump from a late model GM ecotech engine like in the HHR or Cobalt.

Thanks, Doug

GT_REVVA - 4-12-2012 at 06:34 PM

ok gotcha...definitely not a good look on a blow through system with MAF. thought you'd be doing draw-through which is why i suggested plumbing between the MAF and the compressor.

i know the suction will help keep the rings expanded...and using the suction from the turbo inlet would definitely take the guess work out of pump sizing, because suction would increase with boost pressure, but that'll only work on a draw through or straight MAP setup.

carry on then:lachen:

darksaint530 - 4-12-2012 at 07:56 PM

u guys know way to much that sounded like pure giberish to me and i thought i was a decent mechanic. :dunce:

im glad the spray gun worked, i just wasnt sure about it. its lookin good, im goin to start mine this weekend.

chip18sw - 5-12-2012 at 10:41 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Doug904  
I think I didn't have a large enough PCV system, I only had one 5/8 hose going to a tank but this time I'm going with three off the valve cover and a electric pump to pull the gases out.

Of course too much RPM could have been a contributing factor, trying to stay in 4th at the end of the 1/4 rather then upshift to 5th meant I had to rev it to 7800 rpm's. I'm going to a larger tire this time to try and bring the RPM down at the end.

Tuning of course, I was using the SAFC2 but it was a bandaid to a true management system. This time I'm going to a Ford factory ECC-V from an Escort and this way I'll have full controll over anything as well as datalogging and a Mass-Air flow based system that will help make changes at part throttle to keep the driveability nice.

Thanks, Doug

[Edited on 4-12-2012 by Doug904]
Aww and once again the SAFC and the 4/5 E TPS raises it's ugly head! Yeah I'm staying away from that stuff!

Still the whole Ford ECC-V, seems abit overkill, but I guess if your using a MAF instaed of a MAP that's the way to go.

I know GT can make that SAFC stuff work but I think for the rest of us,stay clear of that crap.

I'm with Darksaint on the EVAC thing? I'll just go with a catch can and call it a day.

[Edited on 5-12-2012 by chip18sw]

Doug904 - 5-12-2012 at 11:23 AM

The Ford controls are much less overkill then a $500+ stand alone and works in a factory format that for me is endlessly tunable and easy. I would love to be able to offer these set ups for others too but I'm gonna start with my own first.

I tune cars daily and can tell you the biggest part of tuning is not WOT but rather normal daily driving and cold start. This is what I want, a very fun car at the track and on the street but most of all I want to be able to crank it cold and drive away happy. It's been a dedicated race car with the SAFC2 and it idled at 1200 rpm and would choke you out in the staging lanes if you let it idle. The Safc didn't give me the precise fuel control I can get from a MAF and the TB will be either a 65 or 70 from a mustang.

:) Doug



[Edited on 5-12-2012 by Doug904]

chip18sw - 5-12-2012 at 08:04 PM

Cool man I'm not doubting you.I just can't imagine how it would be done? So if you do it a build thread would be much appreciated!
I have heard of some of the V8 guys using Honda ECM's and stuff so I know this kind of thing is done.

The 4/5 E's TPS seems to be a PIA but there are a few guys that have found work arounds. Huckmubb, on here showed us how to hook up a Bosch spark control box to use with the MS, that gets you around the dirty ignition signal problem, And on TTGT one of the guys showed how to use the 4efet AT TPS on a 5 speed car to give the MS the TPS signal it needs.

I believe the AT TPS would also be the answer for the SAFC problems with these motors but not something I'll be doing.

Anyway keep us posted and great work!

:2thumbsup:

Doug904 - 31-12-2012 at 01:00 AM

Hey guys,

Its been a few weeks and the holidays so its been hard finding the time or money to work on the Seo but I've tried to go after the bodywork side of things, thinking it would be quick and easy :dunce: WRONG

The hard parts were the things I thought would be easiest, filling the body holes from the spoiler and antenna and fixing the big dent in the roof and scratch, small dent and winsheild spray nozzles removed. After consulting alot of different people, thanks mostly to DarkSaint!!, I'm about 75% done. No pictures of the roof as I'm not even close on it yet, lol...


Before.....




After




I went to a local Paint store and had them mix a quart based off the factory 746 paint code, now that its dry its close but much shinier then the outside, lol. Guess without the 20 years of sunshine it used to be that nice.



[




I used two part epoxy to fill in the holes then normal spot filler(bondo) over it. I have to air sanders so I started with my angle die grinder and gasket remover disc, WOW was that the wrong thing to do,lol. I ended up using these neat sanding squares I found at the dollar store, guess what they cost! I bought one to start with, then went back for more, alot more.


The antenna groove is proving much more of a ordeal. Just learn of fiberglass netting procedure today but this is such a PIA. I'd rather wire the titanic then do this again. I'll stick to what I know best, engine tuning.

Thanks, Doug

[Edited on 30-11-2013 by Doug904]

josephflynn007 - 31-12-2012 at 01:07 AM

Looking good my man! :deal:

darksaint530 - 31-12-2012 at 12:52 PM

when you get it running drive it up here and leave it with me for a week ill have it all done and nice looking.
If you do it your self make sure to put down the bondo in layers, notall at once and do it at angles that way it fools the eye when you look at it. Make sure you primer the bondo spots, mosture and bondo are a bad mix. once you get all the bondo done you will need to prime the bondo spots, they will suck up the base coat. then buy some good oil grease remover, i get all my stuff from car quest, aply with paper towels and wipe clean. then my favorite part tapeing:curse:. once all that is done spray a couple of coats, let dry, wet sand and if you like the finish buff if not spray again.
patience is the key to body work

Doug904 - 31-12-2012 at 01:46 PM

Once I'm through with what I've done now I'm gonna prime it and bring it to you when it's running. Not saying the body work will be complete but Ill knock down the high spots and let you finish. This stuff SUCKs, I'm sooo not a body man lol.

darksaint530 - 31-12-2012 at 04:01 PM

lol just make sure no moisture gets in the bondo, just through some paint on the bondo spots and i will take care of it

Doug904 - 21-7-2013 at 06:44 PM

Dropped off a few things at the machine shop, can't wait to get it all back, CLEAN and ready :pepper:









[Edited on 21-7-2013 by Doug904]

madRPM - 21-7-2013 at 09:43 PM


What are the plans for the car?

Doug904 - 21-7-2013 at 10:05 PM

I'm building it to drive but mainly drag race, kinda like Alf. It's went from a street car to a stripped down race car and now back to a street car. I'm not sure if I'm gonna run true slicks at the track or just BFG drag radials.

As for the engine I have new pistons, ARP everything, and forged 5e crank. The cylinder head has been ported and polished, cruise springs and 5EFHE cams. Ported ACIS intake manifold with either a 65 or 70mm TB. For engine management I'm running a factory ford system from a DIS-4 OBD2 system that I full control of with SCT tuning software.

Here's the funny part, the pistons are .020 EBay cast replacements. They'll be on first gen 5e rods. Why, because I can lol. I've always done my previous runs on stock pistons and its made as much as 313whp. Thinking I'm gonna go for around 300 this time, sort my suspension out, and spray it to get anything else I want.

Can't wait to get it together!

Doug904 - 21-9-2013 at 10:12 PM

Had my ACIS intake manifold modified for use with my Ford throttle body, still haven't decided if I'm going 65 or 70mm. He completely cut the flange off the manifold, opening it up and then added the Ford flange I provided. He also added the Ford Idle air control valve on the back of the intake.











I need to update this post greatly as I have alot of my parts from the machine shop and other places.


rainmaker9239 - 22-9-2013 at 09:12 AM

Nice!

GT_REVVA - 22-9-2013 at 09:22 AM

:iwdumbass:

did you cut that off an existing plenum?

Doug904 - 22-9-2013 at 09:36 AM

I provided the TB flange and IAC valve flange from an aftermarket C&L ford upper plenum from a 99-04 gt. Then I gave him my upper ACIS plenum and said " Make it work" lol.

I've known this guy for years, he is one of the best fabricators in the US and he's down to earth and a huge car guy. He's currently making performance exhausts, intercoolers and air intakes for the Chevy Sonic and his personal EVO was featured in a magazine recently.

His website is http://www.Mpfab.com

Thanks, Doug

[Edited on 22-9-2013 by Doug904]

Doug904 - 29-11-2013 at 10:25 PM

Just a quick update....

Thanks to Paul (Rainmaker9238) I've got a forged rotating assembly, aluminum flywheel and clear timing cover among a few other misc items to go with all of my other parts. :pepper:


He was having some concerns about some noises coming from the bottom end when it was cold so I decided to tear it apart, clean, vat and check everything.

Upon further inspection everything checked out great :2thumbsup: All of the bearing clearances were .015-.018, they all looked good and were in brand new shape. The pistons are in good shape too. Point being, I think the noise he was hearing is just a normal piston slap from the clearances required for forged pistons machined into the bores.

Then I started looking at it and found the crank had been turned 10/10, or 25/25 for you metric guys. My forged crank I was going to use had just been turned the same, so I had to install it. I just couldn't have a forged crank laying here when I have it torn down this far, also for the horsepower numbers I'm shooting for its just a safe decision.





I installed the crankshaft and started to reinstall the pistons when I broke the second compression ring when using the ring compressor, it slide out and hit the top of the block and just chipped off. Damn cast ring!! So just trying to keep momentum going I grabbed another set from another piston and started putting it on the piston. I put the same ring in the ring expander to install it on the piston and it just broke in half :blah: I just stopped.

Next I went to drill the top of the block for the ARP head studs, to drill it 10mm I needed a 11/32 drill bit, of course all I could find was a 5/16 or a 3/8 both one above and below what I needed. I tried drilling it 5/16 but I couldn't get the tap to bite when I tried starting it.




Needless to say I ordered a complete set of new rings for it and a Wiseco 74.5mm tappered ring sleeve. Hopefully this will prevent any damage to the new ring set. I've also bought a 11/32 drill bit and hope to get back on it tomorrow to do some other stuff while I'm waiting on the rings to arrive.

I also got a new polished 70mm Ford mustang 99-04 throttle body for my intake setup.



Thanks! Doug




[Edited on 30-11-2013 by Doug904]

Malibuguy - 30-11-2013 at 03:32 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Doug904  
I provided the TB flange and IAC valve flange from an aftermarket C&L ford upper plenum from a 99-04 gt. Then I gave him my upper ACIS plenum and said " Make it work" lol.

I've known this guy for years, he is one of the best fabricators in the US and he's down to earth and a huge car guy. He's currently making performance exhausts, intercoolers and air intakes for the Chevy Sonic and his personal EVO was featured in a magazine recently.

His website is http://www.Mpfab.com

Thanks, Doug

[Edited on 22-9-2013 by Doug904]


That guy uses our high flow converters

Doug904 - 1-12-2013 at 12:15 AM

My lovely wife gave me the whole day to work on my Seo so I took advantage of it! Basically giving it a bath, cleaning up the inside(again), and most important installing my new Shift boot I got from Paul.

For the engine put a few more coats of paint on it. I drained the transmission fluid and removed the metal pan on the side of it. Clean the case and painted it all.

I also lifted it up on the rack and installed my Whiteline adj. panhard rod and cleaned all the cob webs off of it.

I cut up some pool noodles I got for the kids last year, that they may have used once, and cut them up for roll bar padding, need just a few more.

Thought I may have had a decision to make on which ACT clutch plate to use but the sprung disc is the larger 212mm so no hard choice there.

The best part was assembling all of the components I've ordered throughout the past few years, and complaining about the ones I'm missing?!?


























[Edited on 1-12-2013 by Doug904]

GT_REVVA - 1-12-2013 at 08:15 AM

Good to see you found one of those rare all aluminum E series blocks :lachen:

Doug904 - 1-12-2013 at 09:21 AM

Yes, it was a hard decision. I wanted to go dark blue, light blue or maybe even red. I just couldn't decide! Then I went to our paint cabinet and silver was the only high temp paint so I went silver, lol.

Malibuguy - 1-12-2013 at 09:53 AM

Makes it easier to chase leaks down the road

GT_REVVA - 1-12-2013 at 10:21 AM

:iwdumbass:

Not to mention. ..every engine block I ever painted blue...blew :lachen:

rainmaker9239 - 1-12-2013 at 03:36 PM

Lookin good Doug!
Especially that shift boot:deal:

How was the condition of that clutch disc? It slipped on 12lbs with BFG drag radials at about 5-6k rpm. But i figured it was the factory pressure plate considering the clutch only had about 3k miles on it at the time.

Never slipped on street tires though

Doug904 - 1-12-2013 at 05:13 PM

Yes, the clutch disc looks great, heck even better then my old one with just Dyno time and a track night. I have the act pressure plate to go along with it I just need to make sure it fits. If not I have a little clutch shop here in town that can make me one, Spec clutch.

rainmaker9239 - 1-12-2013 at 10:18 PM

Nice, not sure if your pressure plate will fit that disc, but ANY pressure plate will work on that flywheel :deal:

Doug904 - 2-12-2013 at 10:30 PM

It don't :censored::censored:

rainmaker9239 - 3-12-2013 at 04:58 PM

Bummer. Well either use that plate you have and buy a new disc or get another pressure plate. Wasn't Alf selling an ACT pressure plate?

darksaint530 - 7-12-2013 at 04:45 AM

i have a pressure plate that will fit. hit me up in the mornin.

Doug904 - 25-12-2013 at 10:10 PM

I believe it was in the second Steven Seagal movie "Under Siege" where they said "Assumption is the Mother of all F#$k-ups", yup I F'd up. I ordered the rings from Wiseco at 74.50 mm, I never put a micrometer to the bore but rather just saw that the block was over bored and know the two common sizes are the stock 74.0mm and 74.5mm. I've never come across anything different in forum post or eBay listing. Even Wiseco doesn't list anything but the 74 and 74.50 from there they goto 75mm.
With all of that said I ordered part #2933XC which are 74.5mm. I put them in the bore to measure and set my ring end gap and learned it wasn't 74.5 but rather much larger. The gap looked like the San Andreas, lol. I measured it a few times using the micrometers I have but I'm going to run it by the machine shop and have them use a bore guage and do it the right way and tell me exactly what I need.

I looked around on the Wiseco site and didnt find anything in ring thickness I need, next I went to the Total Seal rings site and found a few things so im gonna call them tomorrow and see what I can figure out. For a side note Total Seal makes the conventional ring sets for Wiseco, they even use the same part numbers.

I did examine the tops of the bores closely and found they aren't beveled at all so I may take it by the machine shop and have them do a quick edge on all of the cylinders so I don't have any issues getting the new rings in the block.

I did drill and tap the head bolt holes to 10mm for head studs, fairly simple operation. Drilled it to11/32 and tapped them to 10x1.25, the only thing to watch is on the two holes for the dowel pins, they are larger then 10mm so its easy to start the tap at an angle, you don't want that.








[Edited on 26-12-2013 by Doug904]

Doug904 - 26-1-2014 at 10:16 PM

Got some Cynos headlights from Germany, they were alittle yellowed but I got a restoration kit from Advance and it really works. Got a nice comparison photo...








Malibuguy - 26-1-2014 at 10:19 PM

Too bad they have rhd lenses...

thoughthard2comeupwithths - 27-1-2014 at 05:44 PM

I put Philips Xtreme Power bulbs in my Cynos headlights.

http://board.tercelonline.com/viewthread.php?tid=40769

When I first drove at night, all the street signs on the left were LIT up like crazy. The ones on the right, not so much. I have had the bulbs and headlights installed for 4+ years, I have only had a single vehicle approaching in the opposite direction flash their brights at me, and that was within the last few weeks.

I wish the stock OEM headlights, and the Cynos headlights, were easier to aim, without having the headlight poke out like the Paseo has been a wreck :thumbdown:

thoughthard2comeupwithths - 27-1-2014 at 05:47 PM

If you want to try bulbs that should be even "better" than the Xtreme Power bulbs, then take a look at these:

http://www.amazon.com/Philips-9003XVS2-X-Treme-Vision-Headlight/dp/...

Price might be a bit better on eBay...

Doug904 - 31-1-2014 at 08:11 AM

New mounts made!

Good friend with dang near a complete machine shop in his garage made these solid mounts. He turned down some very tough poly material and then pressed it into the housing.

Yes I know its going to be a firm engine mounting but since my engine used to damn near roll over in the engine bay trying to launch at just over 300 whp I hoping this will prevent any movement at 400whp, and the poly will give a little so its not like going with solid metal plates.










thoughthard2comeupwithths - 2-2-2014 at 11:49 PM

Here's the Turbo & Hi-Tech Performance mag on eBay you were featured in:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Hi-Tech-Performance-Car-Magazine-Febr...

I have that issue somewhere in my magazine piles.

Doug904 - 3-2-2014 at 09:51 PM

Quote: Originally posted by thoughthard2comeupwithths  
Here's the Turbo & Hi-Tech Performance mag on eBay you were featured in:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Hi-Tech-Performance-Car-Magazine-Febr...

I have that issue somewhere in my magazine piles.


Thanks! Ive got a copy but its all written in, ive been watching ebay for a year and you find it right off, lol. I'm buying that one now!

Doug904 - 19-2-2014 at 11:21 PM

Finally got my bottom end together. I changed the engine color due to my " aluminum " taunts, lol.. Now its Burnt Copper! Its my shiny penny.

I gapped the new 75mm rings to .022 top and .024 bottom, this is looser then Wiseco recommends for a street driven engine but falls right into line running 20psi+ boost and nitrous.

The bottom end components, Forged 5EFHE crank 10/10, H-beam rods, 75mm Wiseco forged pistons, ARP main and heads studs and ARP 2000 rod bolts, Clevite bearings.

Now I gotta drill my cyl head for the studs :irked:, CC my piston tops and combustion chambers to ensure the MLS head gasket isn't too thick, and get some new oil seals through out the engine.

Im getting super excited about it now, I hope things can move quickly but its also the busy season at work so we'll see.













Turd-cel - 20-2-2014 at 12:37 AM

Solid plastic isn't going to have much give!
Are you not planning on using a shaft on the rear mount?

Doug904 - 7-3-2014 at 09:32 PM

Yes, I do plan on using a sleeve in the rear mount but just didnt have one to measure at the time. Its completec now, and no it wont have much give but it wont be solid.

HEAD STUD installation is a B*%!!!!! Sure its simple to drill the block and tap it for the studs but its the mods to the cylinder head that are a true PIA. First you have to enlarge the holes in the cylinder head, easy enough just drill it. Then you'll find your dowel pins have to be drilled as well, ever tried drilling a cylinder? If you lock it in a vise you'll distort it :irked:. Ok now the head is on the block, the exhaust side head stud nuts go right on, the intake on the other hand wont fit between castings for the spring buckets. Even if you were to get the nuts on the socket to torque them wont fit between the castings either. I called it then and took the head off and sent it to the machine shop for final clearancing mods.

If I ever do this again i'll just use ARP bolts instead of studs, thanks Trev.

I still couldnt resist installing the intake and exhaust to see what it looks like. :pepper:

I cant use the filter relocator due to my turbo inlet being right in the way. Im also going to repaint my exhaust header.

Its freekin hot though, I never thought id take the time to do it. ADD and a Paseo, lol sounds like a book title.













Thanks, Doug

GT_REVVA - 8-3-2014 at 08:18 AM

Looking very nosh...loving that color on the block :2thumbsup:

Did you make those headers with the engine in the bay?

It's looking like the fitment of the filter may not be the only issue

Perhaps v band flanges for the manifold and turbine inlet

Could be an optical illusion - only time will tell...

Still lovin the progress though

Christian - 8-3-2014 at 09:11 AM

Nice job,
How much PSI will this engine handle?
Greetings

Doug904 - 8-3-2014 at 10:22 AM

Yes, the manifold and turbocharger was designed with the engine in the car, heck it even fit behind the stock radiator but Im doing the civic rad to clean it up and give it a little more airflow from the front. I've ran it with this setup before.

As for boost it should be solid for well over 30psi but Im shooting for low to mid twenties and then nitrous.

Still on the fence on a direct port setup or a single nozzle system. The direct port would be easy to plumb now but a PIA to change jets once its in the car. I want to run it all below the intake manifold because it would be much cleaner and i wouldnt have to deal with injector or throttle cable clearance. The biggest plus for direct port is I would be able to jet it from 30hp-200+(not saying it would handle it) safely by ensuring all cylinders got the proper amount.

A single nozzle would work great for 50-100 shot, which is more then enough, but im just a bit worried about even distribution in a boosted application.

I'll figure it out though, this project has been a long time and I just love adding cool stuff to it that no ones seen before. I cant wait to get my modified distributer back from my machinist and install all of the Ford Ecc5 based ECU system. :pepper:

Thanks! Doug

sleepyrz - 18-5-2014 at 06:42 PM

that passenger side mount will need a spacer in front and back so it doesnt just slide back and forth on that metal sleeve

:deal::deal:

TheExtra - 19-5-2014 at 12:49 AM

This build is truly awesome, thank you for taking the time to document your process and post the pictures. Sorry I don't have too much to add, just that I'm super excited about your available resources, enthusiasm, and investment into the car.

Makes me yearn for a Jafromobile (4G63) style rebuild documentary for a 5E.

Looking forward to the next update Doug!

[Edited on 19-5-2014 by TheExtra]

Slimtercel - 19-5-2014 at 06:33 PM

That's a nice build I like to see it when it's all done keep up the good work

Doug904 - 19-5-2014 at 09:09 PM

Thanks guys,

Its the busy season at the shop so ive not had a lot of time to mess with it. I have FINALLY done everything necessary for the cylinder head studs....

1. Drilled the head for the larger 10mm studs
2. Clearancing the head to fit both the nut on the studs and a 12mm 12 point deep well socket.
3. Shorten the two studs under both cam gears

Next I torqued the cylinder head with two leak down gauges on cylinders 1 and 4, to ensure I had no cylinder leakage when the studs were torqued to 60 ftlbs. Then I tested cylinders 2 and 3 just to ensure I had no leaks there either.

I got a spoiler from darksaint and sanded, primed and installed it. Painted the valve cover with crinkle black paint, it turned out great.

I got adapters for the Ev6 820cc injectors, 14mm to 11mm.

I cant wait to get it all going.

Thanks Doug

Tercel GTS - 19-5-2014 at 09:27 PM

Somebody said on here somewhere you might modify the metric out of it and have a Ford Tercel... I think your Ford Paseo is sweet....

Doug904 - 19-5-2014 at 10:01 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Tercel GTS  
Somebody said on here somewhere you might modify the metric out of it and have a Ford Tercel... I think your Ford Paseo is sweet....


Too funny, everything is toyota as can be, I'm only upgrading the engine controls because both OBD1 sucks no matter what manufactorer and I know ford operating systems like the back of my hand. I love toyota's too, my wife's on her second Avalon and I wanna get an early 2000's Celica Gts but there again for the mods I'd like to do with it there's no factory level recalibration software.

I hate signal interrupters and modifiers, AFC's, MAF clamps and anything tuned with a Nintendo DS, lol.

Once my cam sensor/distributer housing is back from my friend, my machinist, I'll have little to slow me down, or atleast I hope.

BARNEY O. - 19-5-2014 at 10:57 PM

What did you use for a head gasket??

Doug904 - 20-5-2014 at 06:21 AM

MLS .051 thick. I checked it whike I was torquing it. Started at 20 and went 10ftlbs steps keeping check on the leak down testers on both ends. Made it to 6o ftlbs with no leakage.

BARNEY O. - 20-5-2014 at 12:27 PM

Where does a guy find a forged crank for a 5E??? Was unaware that such an animal existed...I had found a company on the net some time back that advertised a listing for one but when I called and asked, they said it was cast...

Tercel GTS - 20-5-2014 at 03:11 PM

Wasn't the 5efhe forged? Thinking some 92 Paseo forged also.

BARNEY O. - 20-5-2014 at 05:39 PM

I didn't think forged cranks had raised numbers and letters... Like "5E" shown in an earlier pic...

Doug904 - 20-5-2014 at 06:42 PM

Yes, they come in the 5efhe, I had one in it the last time I bent every rod in it. In 05-06 they were not easy to come by but knowing Trevva was my in. You could even run across them on ebay. Now I dont see them at all, he may have something but thats the only way id know to find one these days.

BARNEY O. - 20-5-2014 at 07:20 PM

How much abuse can these 5E cast cranks take??

Doug904 - 20-5-2014 at 08:09 PM

Good question, I've not heard of many failures. There are more starlets in the 300's then tercels and paseos combined and im sure there's alot running cast.

I'm more concerned with cylinder distortion and engine block then longevity then crankshaft life. I'd like to have a stud girdle and billet main caps but it just wasn't in the budget this build.

[Edited on 21-5-2014 by Doug904]

Doug904 - 29-6-2014 at 07:43 PM

Just a quick update....

Ive completely assembled the engine, ive designed my electronic ACIS actuator and built about half of it.

I finally bit the bullet and bought a clutch. I have a friend that works for Spec clutches here locally so I took him my Fidanza aluminum flywheel and he built a Stage 5+ with the additional clamp upgrade. Its for the 4efte so its the larger disc. It has the iron metallic clutch disc that bites more the hotter it gets. He recommended a twin disc but I just refuse to put $1000+ into a clutch and have my trans blow apart. Id rather rebuild A 3-speed auto and have a billet converter made for around a grand.

Im getting closer just need the time to put it all together.









Doug904 - 8-7-2014 at 12:02 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Doug904  
I had a great long weekend, especially Sunday. I got the entire day to work on the Seo.

Got the engine bay painted after three trips to home depot trying to find the closest color spray paint I could. Thecolor I got was called Satin Lagoon, whatever, by Rustoleum. It wasn't glossy so I had to go back and get a glossy clear coat, it turned out great as it matches decently and if I remember right the factory teal blue color wasnt used in the engine bay as it was a dull shade of the exterior color?






Next came the Fidenza flywheel and stage 5 clutch. I bolted it all together with the ARP flywheel/pressure plate bolt kit.





Finally I installed my solid plastic engine mounts and put it in the car.






Ive got alot more photos to share but im too tired to link them right now, still in this last pic tell me what you think of battery location? I thought itd be better for weight distribution to put it the right front tire.



[Edited on 8-7-2014 by Doug904]


[Edited on 8-7-2014 by Doug904]

Loki_v2 - 8-7-2014 at 03:05 PM

Pretty snazzy! Looking good man. Battery placement makes sense if you're keeping it in the front.

117 - 8-7-2014 at 06:04 PM

No ac? Sad face...

Doug904 - 8-7-2014 at 08:01 PM

A/C, I wish but with the current turbo location theres no way, nor do I have a two ribbed crank pulley. Once I have it running decently I plan on hitting up Sacha for one of his beautiful manifolds for a top mount T3 and then I should have all the space back and I'll put it back on.

Yes, this is a street/drag racing car. I like the location but think I may need either a smaller battery or I may have to cut into the inner fenderwell a bit to move it further back.

[Edited on 9-7-2014 by Doug904]

ben23 - 9-7-2014 at 04:14 AM

Great job so far man turning out sweet, im running a low mount manifold with a TF035 in my paseo and it just clears the A/C compressor. 90 deg silicone off the front of the turbo just sneaks past the P/S pump too.

A mate of mine had an EP82 starlet GT and stripped out the A/C, I envied how much room he had at the front for manifold and wastegate and piping and such without the condenser in the way, but he used to go mental in the summertime haha.

If you wanna check out my build its in the Works in Progress section. By the way you should definitely go with a smaller battery, I have an Odyssey PC925 in mine, but in the boot. If id had the room up front id have put it up front to keep the weight over the front tyres.

Love the build man keep it up.

Doug904 - 13-7-2014 at 08:24 PM

Got my cam sensor housing/old dist housing back from my machinist. He cut the old housing off and made a new housing for the Ford cam sensor. Then he made some 2" fuel rail spacers for my longer injectors with the adapters.

Hopefully I can get them installed this week and then build my fuel system using -6AN braided line. I have a Aeromotive adj FPR and 340lph pump.









The spacer on the top left is factory length.





[Edited on 14-7-2014 by Doug904]

GT_REVVA - 13-7-2014 at 11:16 PM

I like THAT shit right there. :2thumbsup:

DJ M - 14-7-2014 at 02:59 AM

Cam sensor on a seo 1gen. Nice.

Doug904 - 16-7-2014 at 12:16 AM

Got to work on the fuel system tonight. Mounted the billet rail with longer spacers to fit the 820cc Siemens Deka ev6 fuel injectors, why 820's because 1000's were just too much :2thumbsup: lol. I then ran -6an feed and return braided fuel lines with Russell fittings plumbed into an Aeromotive adj fp regulator mounted on the end of fuel rail.

The fuel tank was removed and I took the stock pump out, we are out of stock on the 340lph pump so I just installed a bulk head fitting in the top of the fuel tank cover tonight and when the pumps come in i'll install it.

I still need to add a one way check valve and inline fuel filter along with securing the lines to the body.

These are the stock lines I removed from the car.












[Edited on 16-7-2014 by Doug904]

rainmaker9239 - 16-7-2014 at 03:39 PM

Lookin good Doug! Some things lookin familiar too lol

Daox - 16-7-2014 at 05:50 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Doug904  
Yes, this is a street/drag racing car. I like the location but think I may need either a smaller battery or I may have to cut into the inner fenderwell a bit to move it further back.


You can easily get away with a smaller Civic battery or something like that. What would be very cool to see is a small lithium battery though. You could keep the battery weight under 10 lbs with one.

117 - 17-7-2014 at 12:56 AM

That battery is fine... extra weight in the front will help

Next best thing for a drag/street car is to move the fuel tank up front like so :deal:




[Edited on 17-7-2014 by 117]

Doug904 - 18-7-2014 at 07:36 AM

No, I had two 5 gallon upright fuel cells in the trunk, one for fuel and the other water for the intercooler. I reinstalled the stock tank because I hated it, having to pop the trunk and fiddle with the damn sealing caps on the cells, they are always a PIA to open.

I just want it to be a nice street car with some drag stuff in it to help. After watching last weeks episode of " Street Outlaws" I think I may be up for a trip to Oklahoma looking for a Asian VW bug, lol. This is of course after I get it dialed in at the track and local street.

Anyone wanna ride along? :2thumbsup:

Doug904 - 15-8-2014 at 07:45 PM

Well, I finally got some coil overs. K Sports! They look awesome and DAMN the drop! Lol, I thought I was low with the GR2's and lowering springs. This really helped out though as I can jump on the front bumper and it wont hardly move, I can't wait to launch it at the strip with some good tires :pepper:

Tuckin' tires rollin on 15's.....:bananarock:










117 - 15-8-2014 at 08:35 PM

that tint needs to be replaced pronto to deal with that summer heat Alabama gets :deal:

also you need a slightly more aggressive front lip...

TheExtra - 6-12-2014 at 02:44 PM

I wonder if Doug still lurks TO from time to time, curious to hear his impressions on the ebay coilovers.

This build is really a fantastic work of automotive art and I hope it gets enjoyed for many years to come.

Curious to see what paint color is in the car's future as well.

117 - 6-12-2014 at 02:50 PM

Ebay coil overs? He has ksports... bought em from sleepyrz

And it hasn't been test yet... still handeling minor details of the car currently (just got a new manifold and a few other goodies)

Check out the "terseogang" instagram account and it has updated pics of the car

TheDemon - 30-10-2015 at 10:14 PM

I was hoping he had this running by now as I could use some of his thoughts for my own proposed build...

thirdcel - 30-11-2015 at 06:07 AM

Update

josephflynn007 - 3-12-2015 at 12:18 AM

Is Doug even alive lol!

Doug904 - 3-12-2015 at 02:48 PM

Ohh yes, I'm still kickin. Just been annoyed with the body shop. They've had the cat since January, then I got it back and had to take it back and they still have it. I did pick up my Gt3782 the other day. 500whp here I come!!




[Edited on 4/13/2016 by alfradio]

mycars12 - 3-12-2015 at 05:00 PM

Just curious, how are you planning on activating the acis?
Also how are you going to run the vacuum lines

Doug904 - 3-12-2015 at 10:26 PM

I've got a vacuum actuator to work the acis. I'll post some pics soon. Here's some from the body shop.

















[Edited on 4/13/2016 by alfradio]

Doug904 - 3-12-2015 at 10:30 PM

The reason I took it back to the body shop is because they didn't cover the blue on the inside of the car, they took the body moldings off AND LEFT THE DAM HOLES, and I wanted the trunk fully black but their dill hole body man said he liked it better with alittle blue. I told the owner that he can pay to repaint it because that wasn't his decision, he no longer works there.

TheDemon - 3-12-2015 at 10:42 PM

Looks good though

Doug904 - 3-12-2015 at 10:43 PM

Here's the Acis, I used a actuator from a Mazda speed but had my machine shop fab up brackets, it was far from a bolt on. I would like to use one of those ports in the photo but I don't think a vacuum nipple will hold the boost. I'm gonna use air brake fittings and nylon tubing to connect most items.



[URL=http://[URL=http://s1105.photobucket.com/user/Doug90444/media/paseo/65DA90B4-2D5C-4EB4-9E9E-94918EE50D74_zps06kthqey.jpg.html]

[/URL]s1105.photobucket.com/user/Doug90444/media/paseo/5FA4E4A7-0EC8-49C2-8C77-0DF9395A64CF_zpsjrfbzomt.jpg.html][/URL]








[Edited on 4/13/2016 by alfradio]

mycars12 - 3-12-2015 at 11:33 PM

Im not even going to lie, that paint job on the paseo is sickkkkkk
Lol, looks like your taking your time with this and is turning out well
As for the acis do you think sheet metal would hold up for a bracket?
I mean it isnt being put under any stress at all
Also wouldnt air brake fittings be over kill?
Im sure that that a normal tube with a clamp should hold it down
But then again, idk about 500hp :doh:
Specifically what year and model?
Is it much different than what came with the manifold?

Doug904 - 3-12-2015 at 11:46 PM

That's not sheet metal, that's the factory bracket. It only has to close brackets off boost, at no vacuum the plates are open.


It's a 93' model, it was the car featured in the 97' issue of Turbo and Hi Perf. Magazine. I've owned it since 06' but grew around it since the mid 90's. I've been building since around 11', it's just been something I've always wanted to do and I've spared no expense but since I'm not rich it's taken lots of time too. Still, why rush?


[Edited on 4-12-2015 by Doug904]

josephflynn007 - 4-12-2015 at 11:34 AM

That's great Doug!

Good luck man!

kennymp3 - 4-12-2015 at 04:38 PM

Everything looks great Doug! Keep at it man, as the car looks incredible.
I look forward to your updates. :deal:

Doug904 - 17-1-2016 at 07:50 PM

Did a new test fit of the new BIG turbo. I also had Two parts of the Acis intake powder coated. Trying to get motivated for when I get the car back soon.











thoughthard2comeupwithths - 17-1-2016 at 08:47 PM

Nice

josephflynn007 - 18-1-2016 at 01:03 AM

Killer stuff Doug!

mycars12 - 18-1-2016 at 10:50 AM

what rpm do you think you will get boost?
looks like a big turbo

Doug904 - 18-1-2016 at 11:15 AM

Hoping for around 4000 rpms but it'll probably be more so in the 4500-5500 to 7500. If it's too laggy I'll spray it starting at 2000 then tapper the nitrous off starting at ten psi to completely off by 15-18psi. I hope to be running 25psi max with this big turbo but if I need a few more ponies to hit 500wheel Hp that'll be the first thing I increase. Big fan of high boost-low timing.

mycars12 - 18-1-2016 at 03:46 PM

nos will definitely help in the lower rpm

117 - 18-1-2016 at 11:22 PM

Quote: Originally posted by mycars12  
nos will definitely help in the lower rpm


What if he wants to run nitrous express, Zex, trickflow, etc?

mycars12 - 19-1-2016 at 01:38 AM

Lol... You know what I meant ian
I refer to spray or nitrous as nos, shorter term

josephflynn007 - 19-1-2016 at 06:59 PM

Quote: Originally posted by 117  
Quote: Originally posted by mycars12  
nos will definitely help in the lower rpm


What if he wants to run nitrous express, Zex, trickflow, etc?


Lmao!

TheDemon - 24-1-2016 at 10:44 PM

Doug, that turbo will suck in a small child, thing is flipping huge!

Doug904 - 12-4-2016 at 09:29 PM

I've got it back. I've made a page for it on my Facebook acct. check there for more updates!

https://www.facebook.com/Theturbopaseo/

Geewhiz55 - 13-4-2016 at 06:58 PM

Wow!